Olivier is the salad that’s hard to imagine a New Year’s table in Russia and several neighboring countries without, even though it’s changed quite a bit over its century and a half of history from the original recipe created by French chef Lucien Olivier. The modern home version is far simpler and more accessible, but no less beloved.

The secret to a good Olivier is cutting everything to a matching size — small, neat cubes of potato, carrot, egg, bologna, and pickle give the salad a pleasant, even texture, while uneven, chunky cutting shows up immediately in both taste and appearance. It helps to boil the potatoes and carrots unpeeled, since they absorb less water that way and hold a firmer texture that doesn’t fall apart during dicing and mixing.

Bologna or ham is often swapped for boiled chicken or beef, which gives a lighter flavor and makes the dish a bit less calorie-dense. Regular mayonnaise can also be swapped for a lighter version, or partly replaced with low-fat yogurt or sour cream, while still keeping that familiar creamy dressing.

The salad really does need time to rest in the fridge before serving — a freshly mixed Olivier tastes noticeably flatter than one that’s had a couple of hours, or ideally overnight, to let the flavors meld. It keeps for about 2-3 days in the refrigerator, so it’s worth making in a size you’ll actually finish rather than counting on long storage.