Beef stew is one of those dishes that doesn’t ask for much skill, but rewards patience. The meat isn’t seared quickly over high heat for the sake of speed — it’s simmered low and slow until tough fibers turn soft and almost fall apart.

Tender cuts like tenderloin have no place here — they dry out over a long cook. Chuck, shank, or brisket work much better: these cuts are full of connective tissue that breaks down into gelatin during slow cooking, thickening the sauce and turning the meat meltingly tender. Sear the meat in small batches rather than crowding the pot — otherwise it steams in its own juices instead of browning, and the deep crust that later lends the sauce richness never gets a chance to form.

Onion and carrot go in early, since over the long simmer they essentially melt into the sauce and help it thicken. Potato goes in later, since added at the start it would turn to mush long before the meat is done. A little flour, cooked briefly with the vegetables before the broth goes in, helps the sauce thicken naturally, while tomato paste adds color and a touch of acidity.

The stew stands on its own since potato is already part of the dish, but it’s just as good with a slice of crusty bread to mop up the sauce. Like most stews, it only improves the next day, so cooking a bigger batch to eat over a couple of days is a smart move once the weather turns cold.