Non-alcoholic mulled wine solves a simple problem: how to keep all the warmth and aroma of a winter drink while making it something kids, pregnant guests, designated drivers, or anyone skipping alcohol can enjoy too. The process is basically the same as the wine-based version — juice is gently warmed with spices and citrus until the kitchen fills with the smell of cinnamon and cloves.

Dark grape juice is the best starting point, since it’s closest in body and flavor to the red wine used in the classic recipe. Cherry or pomegranate juice also work well and give a brighter, tangier result, while very sweet juices like plain apple juice are better cut with something more acidic. One rule applies whether or not it’s alcoholic: the liquid shouldn’t boil, or it drives off the delicate aromatics from the spices and citrus. The right temperature is hot, just short of a simmer.

The classic trio of cinnamon, cloves, and star anise gives the drink its unmistakable winter smell, and a few allspice berries and fresh ginger add warmth with a light kick. Go easy on quantities, since the flavor intensifies the longer everything steeps. Honey is best stirred in after the pot is off the heat, and how much you need depends on how sweet the juice already is.

Serve this drink hot, right after it’s steeped and been strained of spices and fruit — a cup topped with a thin slice of orange or a cinnamon stick looks properly festive.