Cinnamon rolls are the kind of bake worth the one-time investment in working with yeasted dough — once you’ve done it, you’ll want to make them on repeat. Soft, lightly sweet dough wraps around a filling of butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon, and once baked, the whole thing gets topped with a cream cheese glaze that melts right into the warm rolls.

The real secret to good cinnamon rolls is not rushing the dough. Yeast needs time to properly lift the dough and give it that airy, tender crumb, so it’s worth resisting the urge to shorten the rise, even when the oven is calling. A warm, draft-free spot — a slightly warmed oven that’s then turned off works well — speeds things up and makes the rise more predictable.

It’s easiest to spread the filling on dough that’s been rolled out and cooled to room temperature; if the butter is too soft or warm, it’ll squeeze out while rolling the log. For clean, even slices, a length of plain unwaxed dental floss or kitchen thread works better than a knife, since it cuts through without squashing the dough.

These rolls are best eaten fresh and still warm, right as the glaze starts to melt. If making ahead, baked rolls without the glaze keep well for a day at room temperature under plastic wrap — just add the glaze right before serving.