Milk pancakes, known as blini in Russian cooking, are one of those recipes worth knowing by heart: the batter comes together in ten minutes, and the outcome mostly depends on getting the consistency right and using a properly hot pan. Milk is what gives these pancakes their soft texture and mild, slightly sweet flavor, which is why they’re such a fixture at breakfast and during Maslenitsa, the pre-Lent pancake festival.

The secret to thin pancakes is a runny batter — closer to heavy cream than to pancake batter as usually understood. If yours turns out too thick, thin it with more milk; if it’s too runny, whisk in a spoonful more flour, adjusting gradually so you don’t overcorrect.

Adding boiling water at the end of mixing is optional but genuinely useful: it partially cooks some of the flour right in the batter, which makes the pancakes more elastic, gives them their signature tiny holes, and helps them release from the pan more easily. The first pancake really does often go wrong — the pan hasn’t quite hit the right temperature yet — so don’t worry if it’s a bust.

These pancakes are good on their own with sour cream, honey, or jam, and just as good rolled around a sweet or savory filling. They keep in the fridge for a couple of days and reheat well in a dry skillet without losing their softness.